Step 1: Add 1 ml of catalyst per ounce of Poly. Stir thoroughly and let mixture settle for a few minutes. Mixture can also be thinned with up to 10% water. Mixture has an 18-hour pot-life, but can be re-catalyzed by adding 1 ml of catalyst to each ounce of remaining mixture.
Step 2: Clean surface with water. If you are having a hard time getting the coating to cover the entire surface smoothly without “craters” or deep brush stokes, clean surface with rubbing alcohol or degreaser/solvent like Xylol to remove any oil, wax, or silicone left on substrate during the manufacturing process. Wash cleaner off completely with water.
Step 3: Apply thin, even coat of Poly mixture with foam brush, fine-bristled brush, Preval sprayer, LVLP (low volume, low pressure) or gravity-feed sprayer like the one pictured below.
Step 4: Once dry, cure substrate in oven for 15 minutes at 325F.
Step 5: Since dwell times vary according to substrate and method, here are a few examples to get you started. Press ceramic tiles face-down over foam padding for 7 minutes at 400F. Press wood face-up for 90 seconds at 385F. Whenever possible, it's best to press substrates face-down over a foam (i.e. Vapor) or felt (i.e. Nomex) pad to get full contact with the sublimation paper and to avoid sticky paper residue caused by high-release paper melting under direct heat.
Here is an example of a PolySatin tile:
UV Protection: When creating outdoor art, spray on a UV-Resistant Clear Acrylic Coating over your sublimated image after you substrate has cooled. We use Krylon UV-Resistant aerosol spray available at craft and hardware stores.
Coated substrates have no expiration date. In other words, you can coat a mug today and wait 'til next year to sublimate the mug.
Sublimated substrates are microwave and dishwasher safe.
WARNING: Wear face mask & eye protection if using a sprayer